June 1st, 2011
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December 6th, 2010
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October 15th, 2010
WHEN spies see each other across a room, do they flinch? Do they regard each other with quiet admiration, respecting their attempts at subterfuge?
I went with the latter last week, during my second trip to Nepenthes New York. She was small, taut, focused, with hair pulled up in a manner that screamed efficiency. Her questions were targeted, maybe a little too targeted. It reminded me of the time earlier this year when, in scouting a store, I was accused by the owner of working for a competitor.
She spent a lot of time thumbing through items in the small women’s section at the back of the store. And conspicuously, she kept mentioning her husband, and how much he’d love some of the men’s items she was checking out. Why didn’t she bring him into the store, the staff wondered. Oh, no. She was flying out the next day. Just asking questions is all.
There was a lot to be curious about at Nepenthes, a Japanese company that is parent to Engineered Garments and Needles, brands slowly deconstructing heritage formalism. This first Nepenthes store in New York is a slice of brightness cut into an unpleasant block just off the main garment-district strip. It’s a cheerful showcase for clothes that don’t always communicate easily in their effort to balance extremes of function with flamboyant cuts and details.
The pieces can be gorgeous and vexing. Take the Engineered Garments car coat and blazer, in a pair of grayscale patterns, made from thick but pliable wool dobby ($621, $437). On the hanger, they looked like fantastic tapestries. On me, they looked like fantastic tapestries. (Though not, it should be said, on a female salesclerk, who pulled off the women’s version of the blazer with panache.) Nearby were three-quarter-length pants with cross-stitched padding ($322), appropriate for the 1928 Harvard-Yale game. Call it Boardwalk Empire chic.
In the back of the store were Engineered Garments basics: soft jeans ($165) and pleasantly rumpled oxfords ($165), the best color being one that was just a hair more orange than butter. But those items barely appeared to belong to the same collection as the gray and red wool poncho, the moleskin blazers and the green Barbouresque jackets with draped round corduroy collars.
There was compromise, though, in the flattering black military-like jacket with an assortment of pockets, leather elbow patches and extra-long cuffs (with cutout thumbholes) that could roll over ($528). On my first trip to the store a few days earlier, a friend had tried on the gray version of the jacket and was instructed by a staffer on how to fold up the front flaps of the jacket to make for easier cycling. Just about to begin a new job that involves no cycling of any form, he left it on the rack, and instead bought a pair of the company’s ties, including a flashy-yet-respectable black one with purple and gold accents.
Those elbow patches were there, too, on an oversize navy blazer-cum-overcoat by Woolrich Woolen Mills, a slightly drapey item that surprisingly didn’t come with an easel, or a copy of “Herzog” for the pocket ($508).
The similarity isn’t a surprise. For many years, Woolrich Woolen Mills shared a designer with Engineered Garments — Daiki Suzuki, the one-man salvager of lost American styles — though recently the reins were handed to the footwear maven Mark McNairy, another rogue Americanist. The chain of influence was on full display in the store’s upstairs space, which features an impressive array of shoes, including limited-run McNairys special to the store. They reflect the store’s belief that no man should go underaccessorized.
There were also sleek, soft Nepenthes loafers in a rich brown, a stunning tasseled Trickers loafer in red patent leather and brogues with purposefully mismatched fabrics and details. There were great assortments of bags and belts, including a slick one in silk jacquard, black with purple details seemingly borrowed from an Erté ($103).
Upstairs is a pop-up selection of items from Rest Store, a stark and impressive new shop on Mulberry Street where I bought a perky yellow corduroy shirt this summer. That store’s house aesthetic tends toward Jamaican gentleman, which is positively formal up against Needles, the more, um, psychedelic of the Nepenthes lines. There were tie-dyed shirts, and jackets made of pile jacquard — or, as it was called on my high school’s varsity jackets, chenille — for when Kings of Leon hit their acid phase. They’re not impossible to wear, only almost. The rapper Drake had been in a few days before, a salesclerk mentioned, and picked up some things, including, he said, tie-dyed sweat pants.
Squeezed on a rack at the front of the store were a handful of gorgeous but modest floral shirts by Nepenthes, in yellow and black, appropriate if you’re not willing to give in to floral Dr. Martens just yet, or ever.
They didn’t have them in my size, though, a problem that occurred over and over because of limited stock, or limited production. It’s hard to commit espionage without being able to fully immerse. My doppelgänger was having better luck, it seemed, or making her own. I conceded defeat.
Nepenthes
307 West 38th Street (near Eighth Avenue); (212) 643-9540.
THE LOOK All that work you’ve done to pass for an off-duty lumberjack? A waste. The Nepenthes brands are dismantling the style bit by bit, toying with cut, fabric and time period.
THE HELP Astonishingly friendly and solicitous. Plus, they’re intimate with the lines: one clerk is the brother of an Engineered Garments designer.
THE MOOD If you count the head-warmers and watch caps, Nepenthes almost counts as a proper haberdashery. Its accessories are even better, and more accessible, than its clothes.
October 12th, 2010
Bottega Veneta sent their spring and summer collection down the Milan Fashion Week runway earlier today. Bottega Veneta stayed true to their classic soft, woven leather handbags with a collection filled with neutrals and four distinct handbag styles on the Milan Fashion Week runway. The handbag collection for spring and summer transcended the current handbag trends from other designers and was shown in a neutral and classic color palette. Bottega Veneta only showed one glimpse of the current tends by including military green in their spring and summer handbag collection.
The four distinct styles Bottega Veneta included on the Milan Fashion Week runway were:
The soft woven leather, east/west tote with two top handles.
The soft woven leather hobo in neutrals and military green with a long shoulder strap.
The classic woven leather clutch which is structured; in neutrals and black.
The medium sized soft leather daytime clutch in rich brown.
Fashionistas who covet Bottega Veneta handbags will not be disappointed with the spring and summer collection. The military green gives the collection a fashion forward flair and the styles give Fashionistas something classic to invest in.
drive from: http://www.examiner.com/national
October 6th, 2010
I'm just back from the Printemps Loves New York Party thrown by the Parisian department store and V Magazine. The soiree was DJ'd by New York's finest, Lady Bunny, and another legendary blonde, Courtney Love, who serenaded the crowd and prved she's an amazing rock star. Okay so she might be a bit messy and slightly crazy but isn't that what makes a great rock star? Keith Richards, Sid Vicious, Judy Garland: also all great rock stars! Courtney looked great and sounded great -- although she talked a little gibberish through out her set. (Where's that little blue Twitter bird, who has a PhD in Courtneyese, when you need him to translate? Or, then again, maybe Mr. Mickey needs a hearing aid!!!)
September 17th, 2010
Man cannot live on fashion alone. And especially as the end of fashion fortnight (who ever said it’s just a week?) approaches, a little art starts to look very good. No surprise, then, to see the style types at the opening of the new Bortolami gallery last night. Artist (and fashion-friendly DJ) Nate Lowman; Adam Kimmel and his new bride, Leelee Sobieski; and The Webster’s Frederic Dechnik and Laure Heriard Dubreuil (pictured, with Lowman) all stopped by.
“This is a really fun space to work with,” Stefania Bortolami said of her new space on West 20th Street, one that’s roughly three times the size of her old one. To celebrate her new real estate, the inaugural show is a retrospective of past Bartolami exhibitions, including some of the hottest names in the business—Jack Pierson, Cecily Brown, Hanna Liden, and Gardar Eide Einarsson among them. Einarsson was in town from his home in Tokyo, joined by his gorgeous model-turned-PR-maven wife, Maryline. He’ll be working out of a Dumbo studio for six weeks. “I don’t really work too much in Tokyo because I don’t have a studio there,” he explained. “Basically I’m an intern for Maryline’s PR company; I just sit around and stuff envelopes all day!” Just another hardworking fashion publicist in New York, in other words—albeit one with a few works in permanent collections ’round the globe.
September 15th, 2010
Most employees finish the workday and clock out. Not Marc Jacobs’. Moments after the designer took his runway bow after his Spring ‘11 collection show, a friends-and-family crowd—including many of Jacobs’ own employees—headed downtown to celebrate their boss. And, incidentally, themselves. In conjunction with the new Bookmarc book store on Bleecker Street, the company has just published Brian Bowen Smith’s The Men and Women of Marc Jacobs, a collection of photos of the extremely photogenic MJ workforce. The steamy launch fête (”I lost five pounds in there,” one partygoer cried) and gallery exhibition stretched through two rented buildings adjacent to the Bleecker Street Marc by Marc shop, as well as across the street at Bookmarc.
Having spent four years documenting the faces of Marc Jacobs employees, photographer Brian Bowen Smith (who got his start as a model and, subsequently, assistant to Herb Ritts) is as bona fide an expert on the company as they come. “This isn’t a family you can just jump into. It’s a gift,” Smith (left, with Jacobs) says. “Robert [Duffy, Marc Jacobs’ president] is the kind of guy that will go through the trenches with you, do the same shit with you, eat at the same table as you, and make everyone feel as though they’re all on one plane. Marc is the same way.”
“I think it’s just that they all stay forever. We have a really low turnover rate,” Duffy says of the company’s family feel. And why’s that? “We give them raises, clothing allowances, and pay their medical benefits, and just treat them how I would want to be treated.” Doesn’t sound like a bad gig. But, as warm and fuzzy as MJ HQ may be, Duffy admits that there is one aspect of interoffice relations he’d like to change. “Marc is constantly blowing smoke in my face for two solid weeks in our office while getting our show together. I want him to quit smoking and to quit blowing it in my face.”
Secondhand smoke aside, the celebration left more than one guest wishing they, too, could join the family. “I could do anything,” Bryanboy exclaimed. “I could be the girl sitting behind the water cooler, I would be a fitting assistant. I could be in the closet. Anything, really.”
September 14th, 2010
Seven New York, long the home of some of fashion’s most innovative and curious labels (Preen, House of Holland, Raf Simons, and Rad Hourani among them) is adding a new one to its mix: its own. This Monday, the store launches SYN, its in-house brand—and before you ask, no, that’s not a typo. It’s a play on the store’s acronym, as well as the initials of Sophie So-Young Na, who designed the collection with her husband, Seven’s owner and buyer, Joseph Quartana.
While oversized shoulders, bold prints, and even glitter are often the norm on Seven’s racks, SYN will serve the store’s more basic needs, offering, aptly, seven styles for men, seven for women. Most are constructed from Japanese jersey and intended to fill the “in-between” gaps that the store had previously ignored. “We have, for example, a polo shirt for men, which is the kind of item that our designers wouldn’t do, or Joseph would ever buy for our clientele—it’s more the average person’s key basic item,” Na says. But Lacoste it’s not. “What we did was put Seven’s touch on it by attaching a jersey wrap skirt, and then toughening that up with matte black snap details and twill tape accents.” Adaptability’s the name of the game: The current, avant-leaning Seven customer can wear it as-is, and any more timid souls can simply detach the Blue Jeans.
“It’s a good time to offer basics at a reasonable price point,” Na reasons. “But we want to challenge the wearer and take the notion a step further. We still want to inspire people to dress up, not to give up on fashion.”
September 13th, 2010
Rockers and editors rubbed shoulders last night after getting past one of Fashion’s Night Out’s tightest guest lists: the launch of Alexa Chung’s capsule collection for Madewell at the latter’s Soho store. J. Crew CEO Mickey Drexler, The Strokes, Lou Doillon, Devendra Banhart and boyfriend Alex Turner of the Artic Monkeys all showed up to help Chung celebrate her launch (and in some cases—guess which—moonlight as DJ). Prior to its being opened up to the public, the space was overrun with insiders swooping up silk blouses with Peter Pan collars and schoolgirl dresses in velvet and silk; Chung describes the style as “nothing too sexy, nothing too flashy.”
But for someone who’s dressing none too sexy and none too flashy (in her own words, at least), Chung certainly sets off a lot of flashbulbs and inspires a lot of trends. “It’s fucking weird to be honest,” Chung says with her usual directness. “I saw this girl tonight buying this skirt”—she motions to the mid-calf white one she’s wearing, from her own collection—”and for a moment I thought, ‘No! That’s mine!’ And then I realized and thought, ‘You can have it too.’” The appeal of the Alexa style is what will send clothes flying off the racks, and that, after all, is the point. For her part, Chung vows she won’t change her look. “I’ll stay true,” she said.
There were rockers aplenty at her party, but there was one in particular she was hoping to catch after FNO wrapped. “We might go see Iggy Pop if he’s playing,” she said. “I plan on getting very drunk.” No word on whether she did the latter, but Iggy Pop did play—at POP’s Don Hills bash. He rocked his own signature style, too: shirtlessness. Like Alexa, many may copy it, but Iggy’s never giving it up.
September 11th, 2010
Those hitting Charlotte Ronson’s runway show tomorrow are getting an extra-special surprise in their gift bags: a pack of condoms, courtesy of Proper Attire, designed by Ronson herself. Charlotte’s only the latest designer to collaborate with the prophylactic brand, which in seasons past has worked with Alexander Wang, Jeremy Scott, Yigal Azrouel, and Opening Ceremony. But girl-power activists, take note, she’s the first female to do so. “It’s exciting to be the first woman designer working with Proper Attire,” Ronson told Style.com between fittings for her show. After the show, the condoms will be sold at Ronson’s boutiques, as well as at Thompson Hotels like 60 Thompson and the Hollywood Roosevelt, where proceeds will benefit the Planned Parenthood Federation of America. Does Ronson have a safe-sex message for the youth of America, we wondered? “Practice safe sex,” she said succinctly. Need more coercion than that? She’s got a foolproof plan. “Spend a day with a little baby. I do it all the time, and it’s obviously great. But it’s never ending…” Sounds a little like a fashion label—plus diapers.